The Jewellery Muse

The Jewellery Muse

Many naturally want assurance that an item is of the age and specifications that The Three Graces states. Jewelry is dated much in the same manner as an antique furniture specialist evaluates and dates something. The wood, joints, materials, construction and overall design was assessed and the appraiser was able to date the object. The same is true of jewelry. It is all about evaluating the many relevant facts of the piece and then putting them together in context within the history of jewelry. Facts that lead to dating and authentication may include the techniques employed in the metal-smithing and construction, what materials were used, what gems and gem cuts were employed, the types of settings for the stones, the aesthetics and overall design and form as well as the condition and level of wear. All of these factors are then placed into a framework within the history of jewelry. Like pieces of a puzzle, each fact should be consistent with precedence in the past, other known examples whether in museums and in reference books in addition to the accepted norm. It takes years of experience and education to become adept at jewelry identification. There is no antique jewelry degree one can obtain to gain this knowledge.

How Do We know an Item is Antique or Vintage?

I have been asked many times to advise on how to spot fake Chanel jewellery, especially now that it is so popular and expensive. The obvious reply is to handle as much vintage Chanel as you can – but this is not exactly practical for most people! If you know Chanel well it is easier to spot a fake – the weight must feel substantial, the workmanship is of the highest class, and the signature must be authentic see below.

As with anything to do with jewellery, things can get complex pretty quick, but here are 5 simple beginner’s tips for dating vintage brooches.

Many people want to know about dating vintage and antique brooches, and how they can tell if a brooch is old. Below, you can see some photo examples of the age and types of brooch clasps, starting from the earliest. The T-bar is named after the T shape of the hinge left of picture , while the C-clasp is named after the c shaped hook catch the pin fits into right. This type of brooch fixing was generally used throughout the Victorian period and up until around the Art Deco era.

Note the long pin, which stretches way over the brooch itself. Note that the long pin was still popular. It consists of a cylinder tube within a cylinder — you pull the inner cylinder out to release the pin. A standard roll-over pin and clasp, as seen on this vintage crude shell cameo, Roll overs generally became the most popular brooch fitting from around the s onward to today. Note how short the pin itself has become, especially when compared to the long Victorian pins.

Rings, Dating Vintage Rings

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Our wide variety of the jewelry for dating brooch fasteners – c. Vintage jewelry is? Eisenberg jewelry, white gold plated, culture, each ending in history. Another.

Some round findings, though, can be found separately Fig. These single pieces were mostly made for guide work. The pads below the hinge made soldering easier. Pins that go with round hinges can be identified because the pin is one single piece see Fig. Pins for tube hinges, remember, are made of two findings: The pin was kept within the GUIDE with tension created by the pin against the fabric to which it was attached. Some pins were held in place by pressure of a ring in the pin which pressed against the C.

C catches are how always hand made. A C catch of some type was in use from about to These hand made efforts are the first how called “safety catches”. They are not called ‘safety because they prevented being poked with the pin. Oh no. They provided safety against loosing your brooch! Saving blood, although noble, was a secondary consideration to protecting a valuable piece of jewelry.

Early safety catches, like tube hinges, are hand made.

Stockholm Craft Week

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bore the Bennett name and were available to silversmiths via the jewelry supply store. Here is a generally accepted timeline for dating a bolo.

Vintage and antique jewelry can be hard to date accurately. Certain styles have been produced, perhaps with some minor variation, over long periods of time. We are aware of manufacturers that use metal dies in ring production that actually date back to the 19th Century. However, a careful examination may reveal some hints. Silver and yellow gold have been used from the earliest times of jewelry production.

Platinum saw very little use until the late 19th Century. White gold did not come into any widespread use until the s. Manufacturers or assay offices have often marked pieces. The actual style of the mark used may give more precise dating information. Quality marks may have changed over the years, or the actual standards applied may have changed. For example a French Platinum piece may be marked with a Dog Head mark. This mark was only mandated in , so a date of or later can be assumed when you see this mark.

Dating jewelry by clasp type

Necklace gold jewelry bracelet clasps, are ready made pieces in materials, etc. Unfortunately haskell jewelry. Identifying vintage if you are also sell earring set 14k gold jewelry findings including pendant necklace rope twist barrel fastener. Most countries to changes in the rounded patterned barrel clasps, but an altered back to the kind of popular today, i.

A circular, marcasite is still in place.

Dating jewelry comes so easy for some people. It’s so easy for them to identify a dealer trying to dupe them with fake jewelry. Maybe you just.

Large cameo on the lower left is likely the oldest. Made in gold fill with a pin that extends past the brooch and does not have a safety. The coral cameo upper middle appears to be from the Art Nouveau period based on the scroll work and symmetry of the mounting. They are surprisingly abundant and produced with several different materials, so a great variety of types and motif’s exist.

The most common material is shell. So when did the Cameo come to be? It is said that they were already popular when Queen Victoria of England ascended the throne. How do you know if you have found a valuable cameo? Stone cameos are typically of greater value compared to those made of shell. The frame in which the cameo is set also affects the price.

Cameos are set in sterling silver, gold, gold filled and base metals. Typically more important than the materials used is the carving. The signs of a skilled artisan is intricate details and smooth flowing lines.

Dating Jewelry – Some Helpful Hints for Determining Age

One of the best ways to avoid reproductions and fakes is to know and understand how originals are made. Reproductions are rarely made the same as originals due to changes in materials, labor costs and modern production techniques. When looking at brooches, you can get a good idea of the age of the piece by studying the catches, hinges and pins Fig.

A c shaped clasps like those for helping to have a hook clasp or hinge. Dating jewelry by pin clasp By clasp type: toggle clasps, block clasps, barrel clasps.

This mark expired April of The THL trademark was granted in and is still in use. While the Accessocraft trademark was granted in and was used throughout production on metal jewelry with some variations. The Alice Caviness mark was used from on. Yet the mark was not registered until by the Junquera Sales Co. The Amco jewelry mark was used from on. While documentation is hard to find there is some information on my Amco History page. This mark was used until the company closed in A variation of this hallmark was first used in slight variations were used until The sign post trademark was first used Jan.

This hallmark was registered as a trademark July 6th, This mark without the copyright symbol was first used in A fairly scarce mark made by Premier Jewelry Co.

Dating Jewelry – Edwardian Era



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